Регистриран на: 19 Юни 2014 Мнения: 27 Местожителство: Варна
Тема за алпинизъм. Българските осемхилядници и не само.
Здравейте!
Интересувам се от кой източник можем да следим алпинистите Боян Петров-Съни и Атанас Скатов, които са на път към последния неизкачван от българи осемхилядник – вр. Манаслу (8156 м).?
Здравейте!
Интересувам се от кой източник можем да следим алпинистите Боян Петров-Съни и Атанас Скатов, които са на път към последния неизкачван от българи осемхилядник – вр. Манаслу (8156 м).?
Атанас Скатов носи сателитно проследяващо устройство SPOT, данните от което са достъпни тук:
Три (от общо пет) от търговските експедиции са се отказали от изкачването на Манаслу в миналите дни, заради неочаквано голям снеговалеж сутринта на 28 септември и твърде кратък прозорец за стабилизиране на новия сняг:
-- Аdventure Consultants, New Zealand:
It's Over
28 September, 2015
Heavy snow overnight that was not forecasted hammered Camp 3 causing our Sherpa team positioned there to abandon the camp to avoid getting buried in snow.
This was a game changer for us as the additional snow loading on the upper slopes increases the risk to an unacceptable level. Matty and I spent several hours working through the various options available to us trying to devise a plan that would enable us to make a summit attempt after the hazards have stabilised. Unfortunately the fine weather window is not of sufficient duration for slope stabilisation to occur before the next wind event comes through. There are several teams poised to make a summit attempt in the next few days, and perhaps, if they are lucky, they may avoid the hazards and achieve success. But for us, the conditions surpass the threshold that we perceive is acceptable risk and hence we will make a humble departure from the mountain for this season. This isn't an 'easy' decision for us but it feels like the right one, even if it does mean failure in reaching the summit. I applaud the understanding and maturity of our team members who have gracefully accepted and supported this decision and for that, Matty and I pass on our thanks and respect.
We expect to depart our Base Camp in a couple of days with the intention of arriving into Kathmandu around 2nd or 3rd October.
Thanks for following our adventure and all the best from the entire AC Manaslu team who have been fantastic companions and climbing partners on this most amazing of mountains.
-- Altitude Junkies:
Dispatch #18 – September 28, 2015 – Base Camp
Our first set of team members are now back in Kathmandu. They descended to Sama Goan yesterday and took a helicopter back to the capital.
The remaining team members have been weighing up their options with a possible summit attempt. The risk of avalanches from wind swept slopes above camp three left all of them concerned, especially one member, who is an UIAGM alpine guide with avalanche risk experience. This combined with no fixed ropes into camp four had the remaining members also decide to abort a summit attempt. They are now in Sama Goan waiting for a flight back to Kathmandu.
This is the first year in eight that we have not successfully reached the summit of Manaslu. Several other teams are following suit and canceling their expeditions with the same concerns as ourselves.
This morning, unexpectedly, the mountain received substantial new snowfall which will hinder the progress of any possible ropes being fixed into camp four. The weather forecasts all agree that the high winds will stay in place until the 30th and the 1st, and then the jet stream will return to the mountain for some considerable time.
We say goodbye to Manaslu with very fond memories of the nice times we have had here, and look forward to our new challenge for the fall climbing season in 2016 with an attempt on Dhaulagiri.
Phil Crampton
Dispatch #17 - September 26, 2015 - Base Camp
We should have been on the summit of Manaslu this morning but things didn't quite work out the way they usually do for us.
Our team members made the big climb to camp two from base camp on the 23rd. The following day they made the short climb to camp three at an elevation of 6,750 meters. I climbed directly to camp three from base camp to meet the team members as I had to check on several weather forecasts at base camp on the evening of the 23rd.
A very strong Sherpa rope fixing team consisting of two Sherpas each from the Junkies and Himex as well as a sole Sherpa from Mountain Experience started to fix ropes to camp three on the 24th and continued with the task on the 25th. The guys made great progress fixing through the seracs and the blue ice section and then headed for camp four. Unfortunately, this is where things started to go wrong. They encountered waist deep snow, which left them unable to place safe anchors for the fixed rope. Many Sherpas from both the Junkies and Himex were carrying camp four loads and were following the rope fixers when one of these Sherpas fell into a hidden crevasse. The crevasse opened up to 4 meters wide and about 100 meters long, spanning the entire route, basically cutting off the Sherpas ahead of the crevasse. The Sherpa who fell around 10 meters into the slot was extracted, and then the Sherpas had the task of getting back over the crevasse. They found a way but the snowbridge they crossed was unstable to say the least. Whilst traversing the slot to descend, they triggered a small avalanche that did not harm them but gave them a fright. I am glad to say that the Sherpa who fell into the crevasse was not badly injured and made it down safely to base camp. He is now back in Kathmandu.
The following day another team's Sherpas were collecting loads from the high point and were exposed to another slab avalanche which luckily missed harming them.
After the events of the 25th, it was decided for all team members and Sherpas to descend to base camp to assess the situation. Back at base camp on that evening, there was a meeting of all team leaders present to see who would be able to assist the Sherpas from the Junkies and Himex to possibly fix the route to camp four. The Junkies Sherpas have spent more days rope fixing than any other team on the mountain, and have the Himex Sherpas who collaborated with them to thank for all the days they have donated to fixing ropes. The Junkies and Himex have also provided the majority of rope, hardware and ladders between them for all the expeditions present.
The largest team present, Seven Summit Treks, have now offered to fix ropes to camp four as the Sherpas from the Junkies and Himex have given all they can. The waist deep snow on the way to camp four is a concern for wind slab avalanches. To deviate from the normal route around the large crevasse involves a long exposed traverse under overhanging seracs which is not an ideal situation to be in for the team members and Sherpas.
The new group of Sherpas who are now fixing ropes to camp four hope to have this job done by the 28th but we are expecting high winds to be present for several days making the job of technical rope fixing somewhat dangerous. Many teams are now hoping for an October 1st or 2nd summit window, which will mean 100 western climbers and around 60 Sherpas all going for the summit on the same two days. Manaslu has a very narrow summit ridge and it will be impossible for all the climbers to reach the true summit. Many will have to be happy for the fore-summit, also known as the col, which was the summit for many teams in 2008.
Some of our team members have been waying up their options and have decided, with the present conditions on the mountains of slab avalanches happening, the large open crevasse blocking the route, and the uncertainity of the rope fixers completing their job, to descend to Sama Goan where they will take a helicopter back to Kathmandu. Several other teams are now having some members depart their respective expeditions based on the conditions of the mountain and the number of climbers present. Our other team members are going to wait at base camp and see how things work out with establishing the route to camp four and the problematic crevasse blocking the route.
Even before the start of this expedition, the Sherpas and I had decided to climb Dhaulagiri next season instead of Manaslu. This is our eighth year here and we have been successful on all our previous Manaslu expeditions. We wonder if she is being so problematic this season because she feels slighted that we want to visit another beautiful peak next year and not her.
Manaslu Expedition #9
28 September 2015
The good news and the bad news.
The good news is that Namgel was able to fly out to Kathmandu yesterday and he has had an x-ray and there is nothing broken, just a strained muscle. Manaslu Summit The bad news is I have decided to cancel the expedition. We well know that there is only a very small calm period on 30 and 01 to safely make the summit. But I have been watching the transportation of snow all day today, and this is only going to continue overnight and tomorrow. We have been witnessing the various avalanches and the three different weak layers on our indicator slopes. I am sure that the small bowl that is just below the troublesome crevasse will release as soon as people start climbing this and pull the rope out. That will probably not be such a big deal as it may not be big enough to hurt people. But it this then triggers the bowl above which is also loading at the moment, then there is the possibility of a major calamity. Or like in 2012 if a small serac falls and then triggers these slabs then we for sure will have major problems if there are climbers on the slopes. I might be wrong, but I really cannot put my Sherpas or members into such a position. If we could see a chance to climb later in the week we would stay, but there is no such chance, and I do not want to be pushed into danger just because of this small weather window. So instead of going to C2 to stay tomorrow, some of the members will go and collect loads to bring back to BC, the other members will go to C1 to collect loads, and the Sherpas will go to C3 to collect loads. Hopefully we can clear the mountain by 29 and will then descend to Samagon on 30, getting back to Ktm on 01 Oct. In the meanwhile Lisa has been entertaining Spike in her tent. What has been going on we are not sure, but for some reason Spike has taken a liking to her tent. But I am getting quite jealous because Spike also come to visits me most nights. The small rabbit looking face, large mouse sized animal called a Thayokpa has been living under the rocks where our camp is for the last 2 years, but he/she is becoming much more bold as it scurry’s around our various tents. Regards Russ http://himalayanexperience.com/expeditions/manaslu/newsletters/manaslu-expedition-2015/manaslu-expedition-9
Manaslu Expedition #8
26 September 2015
Hi All We should have all been to the summit and be on the way back down to BC, but I am afraid that this is not the case. Manaslu Summit All the members made it up to C3 and the Sherpas were pushing the route up towards C4. All was going to plan but then as the Sherpas were reaching the upper slopes and the beginning of the traverse towards C4 things took a turn for the worse. Nima one of our strongest Sherpas who was also using oxygen was pushing the route, however we were encountering the same sort of snow conditions that we experienced on Broad Peak, waist deep sugar snow. Nima pushed through this for over 800m put then he was getting worried about his safety and so decided to stop. The problem was how to find a stable and reliable belay in this snow. But another problem was soon to become apparent. Behind him 5 more Sherpas crossed the snow bridge across a crevasse that we have never experienced before. We have always just stepped across this crevasse on previous expeditions, but this year there was a narrow snow bridge. As Namgel the seventh Sherpa to cross this bridge was making his way up the rope, the bridge collapsed complete with Namgel on it. Fortunately he is fine, but this created a delicate moment as he was now about 5m down in the crevasse, the wind was blowing strongly, there are 6 Sherpas above the crevasse and another 6 or seven below the crevasse. And now there is a 4m wide and 100m long gaping hole. The Sherpas that were below were able to get Namgel out, but now what to do with the guys above. They made a high traverse to a point where they could still see a small bridge across the crevasse, and then managed to slither across this small bridge and so were able to re-join the original fixed ropes. But now we have a problem, will this small bridge hold for teams to make a route to C4 ? But also this small bridge is under the active ice cliffs above. Do we want to put everyone in this danger ? On the day, all the Sherpas were more pleased to return to C2 where it was safe, and of course our members were safe in C3. The next decision was to decide if we could safely fix rope to C4 as well as carry loads on the 25th. After much discussion it was decided that this was not possible, so this would mean that we would not be able to attempt the summit on 26, the last day before the jet winds are expected to come in. Reluctantly everyone returned to BC yesterday as it is not a good idea to be staying at C3 for the next week. This prompted yet another rope fixing meeting in my camp with leaders from most camps attending. Himex has already put 30 man days towards the rope fixing and Altitude Junkies have put 33 man days along with Seven Summits who have put 9 man days. It was previously agreed that AJ and Himex would push the route towards C4, but now we can no longer afford to put more man days towards this effort for the benefit of all expeditions as we also need to get our own equipment up the hill. At this latest meeting it was agreed that Seven Summits would once attempt to push the route past the offending crevasse and through the deep snow to C4. Let’s hope that they can do this, and this morning Adventure Consultants also offered to send 4 Sherpas to help with this task. We are all expecting strong winds for the 27 – 29 so we are unsure when these Sherpas will have conditions that allow this work to be done. But for us, we will now rest for a few days and will then go back up to C3 to be in a position to go for the summit on 02 Oct. It appears that there is a calm period on 01 and 02 of Oct before the winds will return again. Having put so much effort in breaking trail so far, we are quite content to follow behind other teams who we hope will reach the summit on the first. It is interesting to experience these new conditions at this altitude. This is a new phenomenon that I suspect that high altitude expeditioners will have to contend with in future years. Is this because of the heavy snow falls this last spring, or is it because the average freezing level is going to a higher altitude, or is it because average temperatures seem to be much higher these last few months. A debate for the future. Regards Russ http://himalayanexperience.com/expeditions/manaslu/newsletters/manaslu-expedition-2015/manaslu-expedition-8
За други две търговски експедиции на Манаслу тази година, организирани от непалските фирми Seven Summits Trecks и Mountain Experience, липсват сводки на сайтовете им.
Последните известни засега координати на Атанас Скатов са N28.56953 E84.55134, предадени вчера в 10:49:03 сутринта, но не е ясно дали това е в местно време или в друга часова зона. Това е точка на около 6750м н.в., отстояща на около 2км по права линия на СЗ от върха, по всяка вероятност в лагер 3:
Това се потвърждава и от приложения от него коментар: "Pristignah v lagera. Vsichko e nared!"
Последните сведения от Боян Петров, за които съм чувал, бяха от 25 септември, когато той е изразил надежда да бъде на върха на 30 септември. Явно тази година условията там са особено трудни, но все пак изглежда все още не всички са се отказали и дори има опасност от навалица на върха, където има място за най-много двама едновременно (от общо 100 западняци и 60 шерпи запътили се натам в рамките на двудневен прозорец).
Seven Summit Treks Manaslu International Expedition Team, on 30th September 2015, once again summit Mt. Manaslu 8163m successfully. It is the 1st summit of 8000m mountain after the recent destructive earthquake in Nepal. As reported by Mr. Chhang Dawa Sherpa, team Manager and director of Seven Summit Treks, Mr. Santiago Quintero from Ecuador, Victor Hugo Rimac from Peru, Daniel Stuart Trevena from Australia, Philippe Jean Marty from France, Vincent Jean Callet from France, Boyan Petrov Petrov from Bulgaria, Gaimpaolo Corona from Italy, Lu Shuigu from China, Mr. Gilian Kit Wai Lee from Australia, Cheji Norbu Sherpa, Mingma Thenduk Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Changbabu Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa summit Mt. Manaslu in the morning of 30 September 2015.
Доколкото се ориентирам от данните от проследяващото устройство на Атанас Скатов (виж това мнение на Vedrin), той изобщо не е тръгнал към върха от лагер 4, а се връща обратно към лагер 3.
Seven Summit Treks Manaslu International Expedition Team, on 30th September 2015, once again summit Mt. Manaslu 8163m successfully. It is the 1st summit of 8000m mountain after the recent destructive earthquake in Nepal. As reported by Mr. Chhang Dawa Sherpa, team Manager and director of Seven Summit Treks, Mr. Santiago Quintero from Ecuador, Victor Hugo Rimac from Peru, Daniel Stuart Trevena from Australia, Philippe Jean Marty from France, Vincent Jean Callet from France, Boyan Petrov Petrov from Bulgaria, Gaimpaolo Corona from Italy, Lu Shuigu from China, Mr. Gilian Kit Wai Lee from Australia, Cheji Norbu Sherpa, Mingma Thenduk Sherpa, Ang Dawa Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Changbabu Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa summit Mt. Manaslu in the morning of 30 September 2015.
Браво на него и успешно слизане!
Rincewind написа:
Доколкото се ориентирам от данните от проследяващото устройство на Атанас Скатов (виж това мнение на Vedrin), той изобщо не е тръгнал към върха от лагер 4, а се връща обратно към лагер 3.
През последните 8 часа Атанас Скатов се е движил от лагер 3 нагоре според проследяващото му устройство. Преди 15 минути (9/30/2015 1:01:09 PM българско време) е пристигнал в лагер 4 (7450м) и е съобщил: "Pristignah v lagera. Vsichko e nared!"
Все още не е неуспех -- движи се нагоре през последните 8 часа, не надолу. Тръгнал е от лагер 3 и е достигнал преди малко лагер 4.
Сря Сеп 30, 2015 1:29 pm
Rincewind
Регистриран на: 09 Апр 2013 Мнения: 874
vedrin написа:
През последните 8 часа Атанас Скатов се е движил от лагер 3 нагоре според проследяващото му устройство. Преди 15 минути (9/30/2015 1:01:09 PM българско време) е пристигнал в лагер 4 (7450м) и е съобщил: "Pristignah v lagera. Vsichko e nared!"
Да, това, което се вижда в момента от SPOT-а, потвърждава това. Допреди малко нещата изглеждаха по по-различен начин, явно има(ше) някакво объркване в данните, и сега виждам някаква аномалия от 11:11 на 30 септември ...
Както и да е, пожелавам успех и на него по пътя към върха!
очакван неуспех за Скатов
Е, има още ден и половина.
Все още не е неуспех -- движи се нагоре през последните 8 часа, не надолу. Тръгнал е от лагер 3 и е достигнал преди малко лагер 4.
*
Това в червеното е добавено по-късно, в момента когато писах моя коментар липсваше. Както и да е -- нека не го отписваме човека предварително, въпреки че е ясно че и опита му е малко и времето, с което разполага -- още по-малко.
Сря Сеп 30, 2015 1:36 pm
Marthin
Регистриран на: 27 Сеп 2014 Мнения: 57
Интересно е да се види до къде ще стигне и Скатов , въпреки че не е алпинист. Но с тези комерсиални експедиции май доста често се случва.
Малко е притеснително , че е тръгнал въпреки лошото време и преценката за връщане на останалата експедиция. Дано не рискува твърде много.
Сря Сеп 30, 2015 2:42 pm
vladofff
Регистриран на: 26 Апр 2011 Мнения: 3103
Успешно слизане, и като мине през Рама, да черпи бога Камбунг с една шевна машина Тойота.
Сря Сеп 30, 2015 2:48 pm
vladofff
Регистриран на: 26 Апр 2011 Мнения: 3103
Koba написа:
vladofff написа:
Успешно слизане, и като мине през Рама, да черпи бога Камбунг с една шевна машина Тойота.
Каква е тази шевна машина .?
Навремето Юко Маки бил замерян с камъни от пейзаните на Рама. За да ги умилостиви, им подарил шевни машини, ама не на тях, а на бог Камбунг, който бил източник на злините под Манаслу. Само , че селяните преценили, че бога няма шивашки нужди и приватизирали машините, като казали, че след като живеят в царството му, са "негови хора". След като неговите хора са доволни, явно и Камбунгът няма как да не е доволен... Дребни азиатски хитрини. Боян преди години се похвали, че цял сборник с такива номера може да издаде.
Koba написа:
... очакван неуспех за Скатов...
Не бива да се злорадства. Не вегетарианец, ами и бит педераст да е, все пак е вложил не малко усилия само да организира това нещо и да иде, отделно дето се мъчи като риба на сухо по нанагорното там. И балони да ползва, доколкото съм чувал, кисРолодът смъква усещането от 8 000м на 6500. Ама и на 6500 изобщо не е цвете. Така, че да му пожелаем успех и да не се заяждаме с него.
През 2003г Боян бе изключен от експедицията на Еверест, доколкото знам по "медицинското заключение" на една докторка от нейния състав, която го е счела буквално за инвалид. А "инвалидът" в рамките на 2003 качи един след друг Аконкагуа и Макинли, за яд на завистниците...
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